A manhole cover is small, flat and often well over 100 lb of cast iron, which is exactly why it hurts people. There is almost nothing to hold onto, the weight sits low, and the natural move is to bend at the waist and pull. Here is how utility and public works crews lift one safely, whichever tool they use, and how to deal with a lid that will not budge.
Before you lift: the setup
- Control traffic first. Set cones or barricades around the opening before the lid comes off, following your agency's traffic control plan. An open manhole in a lane is the bigger hazard than the lid itself.
- Wear the right PPE. Gloves, eye protection and steel-toe boots at a minimum. A sliding lid can crush a foot in an instant.
- Look at the lid. Is it cast iron or steel, or a composite cover? Is the seam packed with dirt or asphalt? Are the pick holes clear? The answers decide which tool you reach for.
- Plan where it goes. Decide where the lid will rest before you move it, on flat ground, clear of the opening and out of the walking path.
- Do not enter. Opening a manhole is not permission to go in. Sewer and utility vaults are usually permit-required confined spaces under OSHA (29 CFR 1910.146), with air testing and an attendant before anyone enters.
Choosing a tool
Crews use three kinds of tools, and each has a place:
- Pick or hook. Cheap and simple. It needs a clear pick hole, and the lift often ends with you bent over the lid, pulling with your back.
- Pry bar or lid lifter bar. Good for breaking a lid loose from its frame. Prying puts your hands and feet close to the lid when it drops.
- Magnetic lifter. A magnet locks onto the top of a steel or iron lid, so there is no hole to find and no bending over the lid to hook it before you slide it off. It only works on ferrous (steel or iron) lids with a flat spot for the magnet.
How to lift a manhole cover with a magnetic lifter
These steps follow the Safe Handling guide that ships with The EZLyft®, the magnetic manhole cover lifter made by EZ Industries. They apply to most magnetic lifters.
- Inspect the tool. Take the cap off the magnet, check the magnet face is clean and free of metal shavings, oil and cracks, and make sure the magnet is snug in its housing and the mounting bolt is tight. Do not use a cracked or loose tool.
- Check the lid and clear it. Confirm the lid is steel or iron. Sweep the spot where the magnet will sit so it is flat and clean.
- Place the magnet flat. Set the magnet fully flat on the lid, near the edge you will pull toward. Full contact matters: edges, raised lettering and rounded spots weaken the grip.
- Lift with your legs, then slide. Stand with stable footing, bend at the knees, keep your back straight and use both hands. Lift smoothly with no jerking, keep the load close, and slide the lid off the opening rather than carrying it.
- Release it safely. Lower the lid until the ground fully supports it, then tilt the tool so the magnet is on its edge and pop it up and away from the lid. Step away only once the lid is stable.
- Clean and cap the magnet. Wipe the magnet face and put the cap back on before the tool goes back in the truck.
Never exceed the tool's rated lifting capacity. The EZLyft is rated for lids up to 175 lb (its N52 magnet pulls with over 700 lb of force), weighs 5.88 lb and folds flat for the truck.
How to lift a manhole cover with a hook
- Clear the pick hole of dirt and debris.
- Seat the hook fully in the hole and stand so you pull the lid toward you, not up.
- Bend your knees, keep your back straight and drag the lid off the frame in one smooth pull.
- Keep your feet out of the path of the lid and set it down flat.
If the pick hole is rusted shut or packed solid, switch tools rather than forcing it.
When the lid is stuck
- Clean the seam. Dirt, sand and asphalt in the gap between lid and frame are the usual cause. Scrape the seam out all the way around.
- Break it loose, then lift. A pry bar in the seam can free a lid that is wedged in its frame. Once it moves, finish with a hook or magnet so you are not lifting on the bar.
- Get a second person. A heavy or seized lid is a two-person job. No schedule is worth a torn shoulder.
Putting the cover back
Slide the lid back the way it came, keeping your hands and feet clear of the gap. Lower it fully into the frame, make sure it sits flat and does not rock, and only then pull the cones.
Common questions
How heavy is a manhole cover?
It varies with the size and the rating of the cover. Many common cast-iron covers weigh 100 lb or more, and heavy-traffic covers weigh far more. Check the rating stamped on the lid or the manufacturer's sheet before you lift.
Can one person remove a manhole cover safely?
Often, yes, with the right tool and technique: lift with your legs, keep your back straight and slide the lid instead of carrying it. A magnetic lifter saves bending over the lid to find and hook a pick hole. Get help for any lid that is stuck or heavier than your tool's rating.
Does a magnetic lifter work on every lid?
No. It needs a steel or iron (ferrous) lid with a flat, clean spot for the magnet. Composite and plastic covers, and lids with no flat area, need a hook or bar instead.
Does it work on water valve covers and grates?
Yes, as long as they are steel or iron. The same steps apply to water valve box lids, storm grates and other access covers.
See The EZLyft magnetic manhole cover lifter, or watch the three-minute how-to video.